Preah Khan is probably one of my favourite temples. That is if you can have a favourite. It is a bit like having children or pets, probably best not to say it! It charmed me as soon as I ventured through one of its gates. 12th Century, built originally as a Buddhist temple until the mid 14th century it changed to a Hindu temple. You can see many of the Buddha images with the heads cut off. It is believed to be built on the site of an earlier temple.
Preah Khan is a vast site. It is a rare example of an unrestored temple that is quite intact. The reason for not restoring it is the delicacy and the guess work that it would entail, there isn’t a great deal of information of the original architecture.
In the 1920s the French started to clear the surrounding vegetation but sadly the Khmer Rouge let the jungle take over again. Thermal imagery techniques in the 1990s found more of it from the air and the outlines could be seen clearly so vegetation could be removed again.
At its peak it was a vast city with a population of about 100,000 people. 1000 of these were teachers as it housed one of the major Buddhist Universities in the area along with one of the major temples for worship.
I fell in love with it as it is so vast you can get away from people quite easily. It’s not that I don’t like people, I just like to get a feeling for a temple in my own spiritual space! Also knowing no restoration work has taken place gives it a spine tingling feeling I can’t quite explain.
The intricacies of the ancient Khmers shows with the stonework. I suppose very reminiscent of European Cathedrals built around the same era. Difference being of course that most Cathedrals get maintained, Preah Khan has never been.
Depending on your interest in history or if you start getting templed out, you could easily spend half a day just at this site. I think I did! It is surrounded by a moat and some beautiful greenery so it is a perfect picnic stop. Most tour guides say an hour, I don’t believe them!
In all honesty, I don’t know how people visit with just a day pass. three is pushing it. Seven wasn’t even quite enough for my liking! I suppose people visit Angkor Wat just to say they have seen it but there are so many other temples too. That is why I am building this blog, I want people to experience the smaller, quieter and off route ones where you really get a special feeling for the Angkor period and how they lived.
Preah Khan is located at the very north of the Angkor park area. There are many other small temples in the same area so I would recommend visiting this site and heading east or west after. East will take you to Ta Prohm and the East Mebon which draws more crowds but well worth a visit or head west if you are in need of some peace towards the West Mebon. You won’t want to miss Banteay Prei either which is just north and walkable. The problem with Angkor though is that you go through one temple and find another. Even ones not listed on any maps but they are some of the best!
©JKBeeson
courtesy of google maps
